Duurstede - Silent Witness to Moluccan Heroism

The Dutch colonials began its grab on the Moluccas on 1814, after handover by the British. Dutch terrible policies soon followed, among which the worst was the “extirpation” of local nutmeg and clove plantation of those disobeying Dutch monopoly rules. This and other suppressive measures by the Dutch colonial authority ultimately met with people’s resistance, even armed rebellion.

Fort Duurstede's front look

The fort Duurstede was seized in May 16, 1817, by local warriors led by Kapitan Pattimura. All inhabitants of the fort were killed, except the Resident Van Den Berg’s five-year old son Juan. The capturing of Fort Duurstede by Pattimura’s forces caused a significant shock to the Dutch VOC (East India Company), as this fortress was functioned as its government and defense headquarter at the Saparua area.

Subsequent efforts by the Dutch to recapture the fort by means of deploying extra troops and weaponry were all doomed to fail. This situation prompted the VOC to proceed more aggressively by asking for aid from kings of Ternate and Tidore, who responded by sending no less than 1,500 troops. The strengthened Dutch troops, led by Commissary General Buyskers, implemented a new strategy to recapture the occupied Fort Duurstede by capturing surrounding islands first. This apparently worked well, as Pattimura’s forces were pushed back into the sago forests and into the mountains, forced to abandon the Duurstede.

Duurstede's watch tower

Fort Duurstede is located in Saparua Island, about 50 miles from Ambon, the capital of Moluccan province, about 50 minutes by speedboats when the sea is calm, 60-75 minutes in relatively rough seas. Upon arrival in Haria ferry quay in Saparua Island, you can proceed to Duurstede’s location by available land transportation, ojek, i.e. hired motorbike. Don’t worry about accommodations, since there are many relatively cheap restaurants available around the site, and a nearby hotel stands ready for your lodging service.

Arriving at the historical site itself will be quite an impressive experience. From the large grass field where local people let their cattle feed, you can freely stretch your eyesight seaward, and see the neighboring Nusa Laut Island from afar. A water-well in front of the fortress, however, bears a bit creepy name, “well of death” – as it was told that several Dutch soldiers going out to take water from the well were put to death by Pattimura and his men lurking for their enemies.

Original canon at Duurstede's wall

This fortress itself, until today still standing tough in its original structure, has an amazing surrounding, as it was built next to a white-sandy beach with its crystal-clear water. The uniqueness of this fortress lies in its structure located upon an approximately 20-feet high rocky hill, and you’d have to climb up a 24-level stair to reach the fortress’ only entrance at the front part. Standing atop this fortress’ walls, you’ll have a dazzling seaward view with traditional fishing boats sailing around, due to its strategic location which in the past enabled guarding soldiers to keep an eye on the whole surrounding area. Within its walls you can still find the old canons and watch towers intact.

Beside enjoying the fortress’ magnificence of the past, you can also entertain yourself at the nearby Pasir Putih (white sand) beach and enjoy the soft breeze while gazing at the sunset.

Fort Duurstede was  first built in 1676 by Arnold de Vlaming van Oudshoor (or by the Portuguese, according to some sources), and then its construction process was continued in 1690 by Nicolaas Schaghen, then the governor of Amboina, and named Duurstede, according to his own birthplace in the Netherlands.

This historical site was declared as preserved in 1992 by Indonesian government.

Kapitan Pattimura - The Man and The Story

The Statue of Pattimura in Ambon, at
the very spot of his execution

The coming year of 2017 will be the 200^th anniversary of Pattimura Day in Moluccas, Indonesia, which is held annually at May 15, commemorating the massive (and victorious) attack by Kapitan (from Portuguese capitão, means 'captain') Pattimura and his warriors on Dutch fortress Duurstede in Saparua Island in 1817.

In 1816, after the handover of Moluccas from British colonial authority back to the Dutch, several suppressive measures were then applied, such as trade monopoly, land taxing, and relocations of entire villages. Moluccan natives previously serving with British military were forced to serve with the Dutch military, despite the agreement described in Anglo-Dutch Treaty, or London Tractate, signed in August 13, 1814,  that these natives were free to choose either to enter service within the new authority or quit military service. Pattimura himself had served within the British military up to the rank of sergeant-major.

Worrying that the Dutch re-occupation in the Moluccas would only worsen the already bad-shaped economy and social conditions of local communities after two centuries of foreign rule, an uprising broke in 1817, led by Pattimura. Local community leaders agreed to appoint him a leader and warlord, due to his military experience and high skills in war strategies. Beside leading local warriors in battles against the Dutch forces, he also established cooperation with monarchies of Ternate, Tidore, Bali and Java, which took the ‘Pattimura war’ to a wider scale, and in turn forced the Dutch authority to deploy larger military forces to counter the armed rebellion.

Fort Duurstede, which was captured by
Pattimura's warriors in May 15, 1817

One of the most famous battles between Pattimura’s warriors and Dutch forces happened at Duurstede fortress at May 16, 1817, which was successfully overtook by Pattimura and his men after killing all Dutch soldiers including Resident Van Den Berg and his family, and leaving only his five-year old son alive. Other fierce battles also occurred at Waisisil beach, Hatawano cape, Ouw and Ulath villages, Hitu cape and southern Ceram.

All the fierce resistance by Pattimura’s forces could ultimately be quelled by means of trickery by the Dutch. Added to it was betrayal by one of his own confidant, which in the end took Pattimura and some other resistance leaders to the gallows, in December 16, 1817, in front of Fort Nieuw Victoria in Ambon Island.

Who is Pattimura, actually?

There has been heated debate recently on the historically genuine identity of Pattimura, one of the most respected national heroes of Indonesia. According to the government’s official version based on a biography authored by M. Sapija, Pattimura’s original name was Thomas Matulessy, born in June 8, 1783, in Haria, a Christian village in Saparua Island, Moluccas.

Ferry quay at Haria village, the reputedly
birthplace of Pattimura

A different version came from the historian Mansyur Suryanegara, who said that Pattimura was originally named Ahmad Lussy, born in Hualoy, an Islamic village at the southern part of Ceram Island. According to Suryanegara, Pattimura came from a noble household in the Islamic monarchy of Sahulau, ruled by Sultan (king) Abdurrahman. His name was often shortened in local dialect to ‘Mat Lussy’, which is then twisted to sound like ‘Matulessy’.

Another source suggested that Pattimura was born in Latu, a village in western Ceram, based on the assertion that ‘Pattimura’ as a family name is originated from this place. Some others tried to reconcile this controversy by suggesting that Pattimura, Ahmad Lussy, and Thomas Matulessy, were actually three different persons, and all three historically existed.

This debate and controversy doesn’t seem likely to be solved soon, as there are still so many things and facts hidden in history. But one thing is sure: whether this Pattimura is actually a historical figure or just a mythical one, all heroic stories surrounding his name will always be a living inspiration to all generations, present and future.