Duurstede - Silent Witness to Moluccan Heroism

The Dutch colonials began its grab on the Moluccas on 1814, after handover by the British. Dutch terrible policies soon followed, among which the worst was the “extirpation” of local nutmeg and clove plantation of those disobeying Dutch monopoly rules. This and other suppressive measures by the Dutch colonial authority ultimately met with people’s resistance, even armed rebellion.

Fort Duurstede's front look

The fort Duurstede was seized in May 16, 1817, by local warriors led by Kapitan Pattimura. All inhabitants of the fort were killed, except the Resident Van Den Berg’s five-year old son Juan. The capturing of Fort Duurstede by Pattimura’s forces caused a significant shock to the Dutch VOC (East India Company), as this fortress was functioned as its government and defense headquarter at the Saparua area.

Subsequent efforts by the Dutch to recapture the fort by means of deploying extra troops and weaponry were all doomed to fail. This situation prompted the VOC to proceed more aggressively by asking for aid from kings of Ternate and Tidore, who responded by sending no less than 1,500 troops. The strengthened Dutch troops, led by Commissary General Buyskers, implemented a new strategy to recapture the occupied Fort Duurstede by capturing surrounding islands first. This apparently worked well, as Pattimura’s forces were pushed back into the sago forests and into the mountains, forced to abandon the Duurstede.

Duurstede's watch tower

Fort Duurstede is located in Saparua Island, about 50 miles from Ambon, the capital of Moluccan province, about 50 minutes by speedboats when the sea is calm, 60-75 minutes in relatively rough seas. Upon arrival in Haria ferry quay in Saparua Island, you can proceed to Duurstede’s location by available land transportation, ojek, i.e. hired motorbike. Don’t worry about accommodations, since there are many relatively cheap restaurants available around the site, and a nearby hotel stands ready for your lodging service.

Arriving at the historical site itself will be quite an impressive experience. From the large grass field where local people let their cattle feed, you can freely stretch your eyesight seaward, and see the neighboring Nusa Laut Island from afar. A water-well in front of the fortress, however, bears a bit creepy name, “well of death” – as it was told that several Dutch soldiers going out to take water from the well were put to death by Pattimura and his men lurking for their enemies.

Original canon at Duurstede's wall

This fortress itself, until today still standing tough in its original structure, has an amazing surrounding, as it was built next to a white-sandy beach with its crystal-clear water. The uniqueness of this fortress lies in its structure located upon an approximately 20-feet high rocky hill, and you’d have to climb up a 24-level stair to reach the fortress’ only entrance at the front part. Standing atop this fortress’ walls, you’ll have a dazzling seaward view with traditional fishing boats sailing around, due to its strategic location which in the past enabled guarding soldiers to keep an eye on the whole surrounding area. Within its walls you can still find the old canons and watch towers intact.

Beside enjoying the fortress’ magnificence of the past, you can also entertain yourself at the nearby Pasir Putih (white sand) beach and enjoy the soft breeze while gazing at the sunset.

Fort Duurstede was  first built in 1676 by Arnold de Vlaming van Oudshoor (or by the Portuguese, according to some sources), and then its construction process was continued in 1690 by Nicolaas Schaghen, then the governor of Amboina, and named Duurstede, according to his own birthplace in the Netherlands.

This historical site was declared as preserved in 1992 by Indonesian government.